Project S2000: DIY: Spoon Sports 4-Pot Monoblock Caliper Install

Over the weekend I decided I was going to install my, "new to me" Spoon 4-Pot Monoblock Calipers.  Here they lay on my mess of a toolbox.

A few observations before we go into the install steps:
- Make sure your wheels will clear these calipers.  You will need spacers if you're using your OEM wheels.
- The dust shields need to be either cut, bent back or removed.  I opted to bend them out of the way.
- The wear indicators on the inside pad need to be removed if you're reusing your stock pads.  I did.
- Now would be the ideal time to do stainless brake lines since you're busting brake fluid everywhere anyways.  I didn't.
- I'd have a small seat or something to put the caliper on while you're working on it, so it isn't dangling from the brake line.
- Make sure you have the right sized tube to bleed your brakes, otherwise it'll get messy real quick and bring down the value of your home with stains all over your driveway.  If you're doing this in a car park somewhere, then this isn't so much a problem now is it?
- There are two bleed nipples per caliper.  Yes, two.  Like a human.  You will need to bleed both.
- Check your brake fluid level.  You'll lose fluid and don't want to go dry in the master cylinder.
- This is just a guide I whipped up.  I may have left some stuff out, but if you're even a bit mechanically inclined, you'll be fine. Also, if you don't follow the obvious safety precautions and the car falls on your head when you're working on your car, you win the Darwin award and I am not liable.

I may add pics in the future.  But currently there are none.  On to the guide we go.

Tools needed:
Pliers
Socket extension
17mm wrench
17mm socket
14mm socket or wrench
12mm socket or wrench
10mm wrench
Allen wrench set

1. Once the wheels are removed you'll want to remove the brake pads.  If you're swapping pads then you can skip this.  Otherwise, locate the 12mm nuts that have the black accordion cover on it.  Go ahead and bust loose the top one and loosen the bottom one.  Once you remove the top nut you should be able to swivel the cover down.  Your brake pads should now be exposed.  Wiggle and pry them out and place them to the side.  Yes.  Wiggle is the technical term.  Once the pads are out, put that nut back in so its not swinging around knocking on your fragile knuckles.

2. Now you'll want to locate the two 17mm nuts on the backside of the assembly.  You can either use a wrench or a socket.  I just used a wrench.  Once the caliper is free, place it on whatever you provisioned to not have the caliper dangling from the brake line.  Place it some place away so that you have room while not stretching the brake line.

3. If you're bending the dust shield back like I did, there are three areas where you'll need to bend.  The top, the bottom and the middle.  The middle you can bend back with a screwdriver.  I used pliers for the top and bottom.  Just bend them towards the inside of the car.  Test fit the Spoon caliper and see how much more you need to bend.  Repeat until the two 17mm nuts bolt in easily.  This can be frustrating causing you to go red in the face and sweat profusely if its hot outside.  Just take your time.  Bolt them in and tighten them up.  The Spoon caliper will right itself and not cause it to rub against the rotor.  When doing the bolts, since you bent the shield back you won't be able to use a wrench anymore, so use a socket with an extension to torque them down.

4. At this point you're ready to install the brake pads. If you're so inclined, this is when you'll put the brake grease on the pad back.  Remove the black brace that has Nissin stamped on it with your allen wrench set.  Then slot them in and make sure the edges line up with the brake rotor.  Remember, if you're using OEM pads or pads that have a wear indicator, you'll have to remove them from the inside pad.

5.  Now comes the messy part.  Use the 14mm socket/wrench to loosen the brake line from the back of the original caliper.  At this point, it'll start dumping brake fluid everywhere. Don't forget the washers and move the line, washers and bolt quickly over to the Spoon caliper.  Tighten.

6.  Double check all bolts and make sure they are on securely and to torqued to spec.  Make sure the bent back portion of the dust shield does not interfere with anything while the vehicle is in operation.

7.  Repeat for the passenger side.

8.  Bleed your brakes. Put the wheels back on, pump the brakes until the caliper pistons seat against the pads and go out for a test drive.  If your brakes are mushy, then you need to continue bleeding.

9. Celebrate with your alcoholic beverage of choice.  Stand back.  Admire your handy work.  Take a few obligatory pics and throw them up on Instagram.

/post

Project S2000: Replica FEED Side Diffusers

Got me some replica shit!
They fit like replica shit!
Got me a new lens!
No its not a replica lens!
Took some photos.

Project S2000: Video Time! Lets Get Those Hands Dirty

Just a quick video my buddy took while I was throwing all the parts together a couple weekends ago.  Enjoy.  We're no Steven Speilberg.  Shit we're not even sure we know how to use a camera!

Today was a good day - 2005 Honda S2000 from Davidoff Von Chenkenov on Vimeo.

Project: 2005 Honda S2000

Finally got a pic with a real camera and not my phone--and I still managed to bungle it up somehow.  I know these stance or flush people are gonna be like, "WTF is up with those bubble tires??"  Listen, I've been doing the stance thing for awhile now and I actually like the not slammed bubbly tire look.  Looks like a bulldog to me, mean and ready to scrap when need be.  Speaking of bulldogs, the S2000 front end has always reminded me of a shark.  So this is a shark faced bulldog.  Hah!

Got some side skirts to put on and a wing project I'm working on next--oh and the Harley.  Gotta finish that one up too!

Another Ruined S2000

Had a BBQ today while working on the S2000.  Only got through the suspension, wheels and having the fenders rolled and pulled.  Now its time to dial in the camber and move on to the next mod.  It never ends my friends, whether its a motorcycle, car or guns--there's always something to upgrade.  Some work in progress pics.

Gonna go shower now.  15 hours will do sour things to your feet.

Wheel/Suspension specs:

TE37 Mag Blue
17x9 +22 215/45-17 Michelin Pilot Super Sports
18x9.5 +22 235/40-18 Michelin Pilot Super Sports
BC Racing Coilovers with Swift Springs 12k F/R

Via CHP: Lane Splitting in California is LEGAL

Since I always had an issue finding this, figured it'd be a service to those wondering about the rules of splitting lanes in California.  Brought to you by the beloved California Highway Patrol.  Although most is common sense, it helps for those that never put much thought into lane splitting.  I also went ahead and highlighted a few points I thought were pertinent to our caged brethren.

Lane Splitting General Guidelines

Lane splitting in a safe and prudent manner is not illegal in the state of California.

The term lane splitting, sometimes known as lane sharing, filtering or white-lining, refers to the process of a motorcyclist riding between lanes of stopped or slower moving traffic or moving between lanes to the front of traffic stopped at a traffic light.

Motorcyclists who are competent enough riders to lane split, should follow these general guidelines if choosing to lane split:

1) Travel at a speed that is no more than 10 MPH faster than other traffic – danger increases at higher speed differentials.

- A speed differential of 10 miles per hour or less allows an alert, competent rider enough time to identify and react to most dangerous situations that can occur.

- The greater the speed differential, the less time a rider has to identify and react to a hazard.


2) It is not advisable to lane split when traffic flow is at 30 mph or faster --- danger increases as overall speed increases.

- At just 20 mph, in the 1 or 2 seconds it takes a rider to identify a hazard, that rider will travel approximately 30 to 60 feet before even starting to take evasive action. Actual reaction (braking or swerving) will take additional time and distance.

- Braking and stopping distance varies greatly based on a multitude of factors (rider, machine and environment).

- As speed increases, crash severity increases.


3) Typically, it is safer to split between the #1 and #2 lanes than between other lanes.

- Other road users are more accustomed to motorcycles splitting between the #1 and #2 (furthest left) lanes.

- Avoid splitting in lanes near freeway on-ramps and exits.

- Avoid splitting lanes when another motorcycle rider is splitting between other nearby lanes as cars may make additional room for one rider and accidentally reduce space for another.


4) Consider the total environment in which you are splitting, including the width of the lanes, size of surrounding vehicles, as well as roadway, weather, and lighting conditions.

- Some lanes are narrower than others, leaving little room to pass safely. If you can't fit, don't split.

- Some vehicles are wider than others -- it is not advisable to split near wide trucks. If you can't fit, don't split.

- Know the limitations of your motorcycle --- wide bars, fairing and bags require more space between vehicles. If you can't fit, don't split.

- Avoid splitting on unfamiliar roads to avoid surprises such as poor road surfaces.

- Seams in the pavement or concrete between lanes can be hazardous if they are wide or uneven.

- Poor visibility, due to darkness or weather conditions, makes it difficult for riders to see road hazards and makes it more difficult for drivers to see you.

- Help drivers see you by wearing brightly colored protective gear and using high beams during daylight.


5) Be alert and anticipate possible movements by other road users.

- Be very aware of what the cars around you are doing. If a space, or gap, opens up next to your lane, be prepared react accordingly.

- Always be prepared to take evasive action if a vehicle changes lanes.

- Account for inattentive or distracted drivers.

- Riders should not weave back and forth between lanes or ride on top of the line.

- Riders should avoid lingering in blind spots.

- Never ride while impaired by drugs, alcohol or fatigue.

- Constantly scan for changing conditions.

The Four R's or “Be-Attitudes” of Lane Splitting: 

Be Reasonable, be Responsible, be Respectful, be aware of all Roadway and traffic conditions.

- Be Reasonable means not more than 10 MPH faster than traffic flow and not over 39 MPH.


- Be Responsible for your own safety and decisions.

• Don't put yourself in dangerous positions.
• If you can't fit, don't split.

- Be Respectful --- sharing the road goes both ways.

• Don't rely on loud pipes to keep you safe, loud pipes often startle people and poison the attitude of car drivers toward motorcyclists.
• Other vehicles are not required to make space for motorcycles to lane split.

- Be aware Roadways and traffic can be hazardous.

• uneven pavement
• wide trucks
• distracted drivers
• weather conditions
• curves
• etc.

Disclaimers: 

These general guidelines are not guaranteed to keep you safe.

Lane splitting should not be performed by inexperienced riders. These guidelines assume a high level of riding competency and experience.

The recommendations contained here are only general guidelines and cannot cover all possible combinations of situations and variables.

Personal Safety: Every rider has ultimate responsibility for his or her own decision making and safety. Riders must be conscious of reducing crash risk at all times. California law requires all motorcycle riders and passengers wear a helmet that complies with the DOT FMVSS 218 standard.

Risk of getting a ticket: Motorcyclists who lane split are not relieved of the responsibility to obey all existing traffic laws. With respect to possible law enforcement action, keep in mind that it will be up to the discretion of the Law Enforcement Officer to determine if riding behavior while lane splitting is or was safe and prudent.

When is it NOT OK to split?

You should NOT lane split:

- If you can't fit.

- At a toll booth.

- If traffic is moving too fast or unpredictably.

- If dangerous road conditions exist --- examples include water or grit on the road, slippery road markings, road construction, uneven pavement, metal grates, etc.

- If you cannot clearly see a way out of the space you're going into (for example, if a van or SUV is blocking your view).

- Between trucks, buses, RVs, and other wide vehicles.

- Around or through curves.

- If you are not fully alert and aware of your surroundings.

- If you are unable to react to changing conditions instantaneously.

- If you don't feel comfortable with the situation.

Messages for Other Vehicle Drivers

1) Lane splitting by motorcycles is not illegal in California when done in a safe and prudent manner.

2) Motorists should not take it upon themselves to discourage motorcyclists from lane splitting.

3) Intentionally blocking or impeding a motorcyclist in a way that could cause harm to the rider is illegal (CVC 22400).

4) Opening a vehicle door to impede a motorcycle is illegal (CVC 22517). 

5) Never drive while distracted.

6) You can help keep motorcyclists and all road users safe by

Checking mirrors and blind spots, especially before changing lanes or turning

Signaling your intentions before changing lanes or merging with traffic

Allowing more following distance, three or four seconds, when behind a motorcycle so the motorcyclist has enough time to maneuver or stop in an emergency

WIP: Ironhead Paughco Hard Tail

Finally got around to working on the sled again.  Nothing to report on the ironhead except I got the rear rim and wiring harness out.  The pics below are what gets me excited.  I don't know why, but the look of a roller (I know mine isn't much of a roller) just gets me going the right way.  Maybe its the anticipation of the finished product, or the promise of leathery old biker chick ass.  Anyway you shake, it gets my motor runnin!  Pictured is a Paughco with stock rake and 0 up, 0 out--S120 as its designated.  Anyhow, on to the pics!

Really thinking about going with a fat front tire with a springer... been diggin that look for awhile now.  We'll see what the second hand market has in store for my rig.  Until next time.

S&S Super E's on an Ironhead: My Take

Its just hype.  Seems like everyone's running Super E's on their Ironhead.  There's always someone asking about Super E's on Ironheads and there's always a large portion of people that responds that they're running one on theirs and that it runs great.  Then there's that one guy---two even--that chimes in and says, "The Super E is just too big a carb for the ironhead, go with a CV, tune it and forget it."  Of course no one really comments on that, they just continue chanting the Super E is the awesome way to go.  Maybe its the Yelp mentality, the more positive reviews the better right?  Not so in my case.

I got caught up in the hype, the glossy S&S name.  I've been trying to tune this Super E on my Ironhead for the past four weekends.  I've purchased all the jet kits and rebuilt the thing.  My ironhead just refuses to run with it.  Well in the end I gave up.  Like I stated, this is my personal experience but the plethora of other people who have come to realize this and post about their own experience corroborate my experience.  On the flip side, my bike came with a Edelbrock Qwiksilver 2, a carb that everyone thinks is shit.  Well, I just put it back on after fixing the slide (slide was stuck--yes while I was on it!) and it started right up.  Its all out of tune due to my dicking around with it, but it started just fine.  Now to get it running correctly and I'll be back on the road.  I know I sound like a hurt vagina but I'm just jaded over this whole experience with my S&S Super E.  So a bit of advice for those that are researching carbs:  listen to the old guy who's been around the block.  He'll mostly likely advocate for something that's fallen out of fashion and isn't as popular as what the mass is harpin' about--but works.  I'm going to go with the CV carb from a newer sporty since this is what a lot of the "old timers" recommend.  Old timers rock.

I know I haven't updated the site in awhile, but here's how my Ironhead sits currently.  Breakin' it down for a Paughco frame I picked up.  Can't wait to start grindin' on this bitch!